Trailex Trailer

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Curious about Wooden Canoes
After struggling to get my sailing canoe on top of my pickup truck singlehand, I have decided to get a small trailer to make life easier. Anyone have experience with Trailex trailers? They seem a bit pricey but look nicely made. Are there any better options out there?
 
Trailex trailers are aluminum and require assembly. Their main advantage is the very low weight capacity so that they don't transfer all of the road bounces to the boat. There are very few other trailers with less than a 600# load capacity. A lightweight boat on a heavily sprung trailer can really break up a boat, especially a wooden one.. Trailex understands that concept.
 
I was able to locate one on craiglist and got it for short $. I really like it and am able to use it as a launching dolly, it is so light. Mine is an older unit and lacks the decal the newer ones have that advises you to run the tires at 15 P.S.I. . There are no springs on a trailex , only a rubber suspension pad between the axle and the trailer frame that provides road shock absorption. Running the tires at low PSI gives you additional road shock absorption and less jarring to your canoe. I have not noticed abnormal tire tread wear from running them low pressure. I tow the unit mostly with my pickup with an 8' bed. After launching, using the trailex as a dolly, I just singlehandledly lift the trailex (it is that light) into the bed of the truck and then easily park the truck in the tight parking spaces normally found at the locations where I paddle. I have hauled canoes ranging in length from 15' to 18'. On occasion, when I know I will be traversing ultra bumpy roads, I put the trailer into the truck bed , secure the hitch end into a front corner of the bed, and the axle at the end of the bed where the tires are on the dropped tailgate, load the canoe on the trailer and secure it as you would trailering it. A red flag on the sticking out end (required if there is more than 4' extending beyond the vehicle) is necessary with long canoes but the canoe is riding so high there is no chance of a vehicle hitting it. Works slick!! I think they are a great unit and am looking for another one. It serves as an easy storage unit also, just roll it into the garage by hand.

Ed
 
Loadrite has come out with a line of galvanized canoe/kayak trailers that are considerably less expensive and still fairly light. They build 2, 4, and 6 boat versions. The 2 place just has a set of elevated crossbars on the frame designed to carry canoes upside-down. They also build small-craft bunk-style trailers if you want to haul and launch your boat from the trailer on a ramp. I have a connection with one of their larger dealers in NE Ohio - let me know if you're interested.
 
I cut up an old Coleman camper to make a canoe trailer. I had not considered the spring rates. does anyone know of an easy way to tell if the springs are to heavy
for a couple canoes?
 
There would have been a manufacturer's sticker/plate on it somewhere, usually left front, that would have the weight of the former camper. the registration would also have the weight. A heavier weight would mean stronger springs. Stronger springs would mean bouncier. Consider a one ton pick up vs a half ton, and the ride you get in each. I think that lighter would better match carrying a canoe,---- or two.
 
I took a small boat trailer and just took 1 leaf spring off of it. I can take another if still too bouncy. Pulled the trailer out of the weeds, it was free, and put new rims and tires on it. They were super cheap at Menards, then put new bearings on it and new LED lights(they were free).
 
Does anyone know what the vertical distance is between the cross bars on a canoe trailer? I noticed the bow and stern on the Morris rise quite a bit. More spacing makes the trailer taller and difficult to load. I am thinking 24" with a 2" cross bar. any thoughts before I weld?
 
My crossbars are 23" apart, which leaves 6" of space between the highest boat part and the next crossbar. BUT it's a home-built; not sure what spacing a "real" manufacturer would use.
 
Does anyone know what the vertical distance is between the cross bars on a canoe trailer? I noticed the bow and stern on the Morris rise quite a bit. More spacing makes the trailer taller and difficult to load. I am thinking 24" with a 2" cross bar. any thoughts before I weld?

My commercially made trailer has 18.5" clear space between crossbars. The bars are wide enough that canoes can be staggered so that tips don't hit the canoe beneath.
 
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