Restoring 16' Peterborough Canoe

[Kevin James]

I am restoring a Peterborough Canoe. 16" high end model with the curving bow and stern lines. Sorry I don't have the model number or the serial number right now. The canoe has only one thwart and it is not in the centre. I assume this is because the paddles would be tied in to use as a carrying yoke substitute. When rstoring, is it okay to replace this one thwart with a centered carrying yoke?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I just picked up a derelict Pete today. 16'er. My opinion is that I always prefer a center thwart or even a yoke. It just makes sense when you need to carry it solo. It's ok to do it if that is what you want.

 

[Kevin James]

I just picked up a derelict Pete today. 16'er. My opinion is that I always prefer a center thwart or even a yoke. It just makes sense when you need to carry it solo. It's ok to do it if that is what you want.

I looked at your pictures of the Peterborough Canoe you just purchased/picked up. Looks just like mine. Putting a carrying yoke in that will be very close to the rear of the bow seat. This would be a bit of animpediment when paddling solo. Do you have the plans/designs for a portable/removeable carrying yoke?

 

[Gary]

Hi Kevin, I did exactly what you are suggesting with a Peterborough Champlain High End model. I repositioned the thwart normally set behind the bow seat so that it was centered in the canoe for carrying and I've had no issues with the canoe getting out of shape or in how it paddled. Although I left the original style thwart I see no problems with putting a yoke style in there. Hope this helps?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I made up one for shop use. Essex industries had a good one.

 

[Kevin James]

Love your picture of the high end Champlain. Did you reposition the bow seat? As well as add the centre thwart?
Great job.
I have lots of questions for you and Dave Wermuth. I am hoping my humble efforts will end up with a result like the two of you guys have done!!

 

[Kevin James]

HI Dave and Gary,
Did either of you put an oil treatment on the exterior hull before re-canvassing?
What grade of canvas was used?
Did you use regular filler or Zinsser Water Tight paint to fill the weave?
What primer did you use?
What finish coat paint did you use? Epifanes has been recommended to me.
Did you use stainless steel T50 staples? What length - 1/2" or 9/16? Or tacks? And why?
Lots more questions for sure as I prep for this restoration project! I really want to do it right!
Thanks so much fellas.

 

[Gary]

Hi Kevin, First, no I did not re-position the bow seat or add the second thwart that, Peterborough was built that way.
Second in answer to your questions;
Yes after filling dents, low areas etc. in the exterior of the hull with a marine bondo and then sanding I give it a coat of 50/50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine usually warmed slightly to ensure penetration into the wood.
I use #10 canvas
I used to use the traditional filler but now use a water based product made my Bakor as my filler, dries overnight.
I use the Zinsser 123 as my primer, sanding between coats, before my final paint colour and I like either Epifanes, or Interlux Brightside usually 3 coats again sanding between.
I use stainless steel staples, two at each rib through into the inwale and 5/8".
This is just what I do in answer to your questions, there are many ways to do do each stage of a canoe restoration and you'll get lots of help here on this forum.
Enjoy and post pictures.
Gary

 

[Gary]

Sorry Kevin the brass tacks I use on the ends are 5/8" the staples are 1/2". Getting forgetful with age. And here is another Peterborough Champlain I restored showing the normal placement of the bow thwart behind the bow seat. As long as they are at the same heights it dosn't have any real affect on the paddler sitting in the solo position. But you may think differently according to your tastes? Gary

 

[Kevin James]

Hey Gary,
That centre thwart placement seems like it would be the same for me. The bow seat is right in front of location. So, if I put a carrying yoke there, I would have to carry with the stern being the forward end. Not that this is a challenge, it's just not normally the way it is done.
Thanks for all the information. That does help my thinking. Did you oil the inside as well?
Did you use shellac before putting on the spar varnish?
My caned seats seem to be intact. Did you treat the caning with anything?

 

[Gary]

Hi Kevin, I do sometimes oil the inside as well depending on the final colour I'm wanting, as when you use the oil/turp mix it darkens the wood. Sometimes I'm wanting a lighter look so I wont. I do not shellac but use multiple coats of spar marine varnish on all wood work, and on both sides of my caned seats. I usually use Epifanes spar varnish with their matte finish for my final coat.

 

[Kevin James]

Very helpful. Thanks. Do you treat the caning with the spar varnish?

 

[Kevin James]

Hi Gary,
This is a couple of pictures of my Peterborough 16' Champlain - High End. I really like the looks of its lines. The varnish inside is all wrinkled and needs cleaning out. The ribs seem solid. The gunwales - inner and outer seem solid. The rear deck plate has a small crack in it. A couple of rib ends have small cracks where the tacks split them. I figure I can fill those small cracks in the rib ends with TiteBond 3 waterproof glue mixed with cedar sawdust.
If I reuse the gunwales, should I fill the old holes in the rib ends (where the screws are located) with tooth picks and glue to ensure the screws and the wood are fixed securely?
Thanks so much for all your info.
Kevin

 

[Andre Cloutier]

Kevin, your canoe looks great, just an note about preserving lines. If you change thwarts for new or different should be no problem to keep shape but if you relocate make sure to strap the boat with out the thwarts in place and fit to this shape, else you risk ruining the fair curve there currently. New thwart length will then conform to the boats shape and not vice versa. Here's your tip of the day, leave the toothpicks in the kitchen lol and buy a bag of hardwood golf tees and open he hole with a drill bit and glue or epoxy these in, and re drill. If the softwood outers are in a similar way, i fill them also and countersink to an appropriate level. screw head hides the epoxy fill. Cheers, Andre

 

[Kevin James]

Great idea! Thanks so much.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I oil the outside.

 

[Gary]

Hi Kevin, Andre's suggestion of using golf tees is a good one. I've often wasted time in whittling something to fit. I've often used a two part epoxy wood filler which has also been helpful but only where it wouldn't be seen as it's hard to blend into existing wood. I've included a picture of this product below. I'm not sure if it's available in the States though?
Yes it is a good idea to fill any old holes and cracks in the rib ends as you'll be screwing the inwales into them and then the outwales through the planking, specially if you are replacing these and wont be re-using the old holes.
I like to place the screws for my inwales on the bow side of the rib, then when I'm putting the outwales on I know to position these screws on the stern side of the ribs so both slightly off center, thus eliminating the problem of drilling and hitting an existing screw.
Gary

 

[Kevin James]

I oil the outside.

Hi Dave,
Thanks for this response. Do you use a turpentine- boiled linseed oil mix? What mix?
Thanks.
Kevin

 

[Kevin James]

Hi Kevin, Andre's suggestion of using golf tees is a good one. I've often wasted time in whittling something to fit. I've often used a two part epoxy wood filler which has also been helpful but only where it wouldn't be seen as it's hard to blend into existing wood. I've included a picture of this product below. I'm not sure if it's available in the States though?
Yes it is a good idea to fill any old holes and cracks in the rib ends as you'll be screwing the inwales into them and then the outwales through the planking, specially if you are replacing these and wont be re-using the old holes.
I like to place the screws for my inwales on the bow side of the rib, then when I'm putting the outwales on I know to position these screws on the stern side of the ribs so both slightly off center, thus eliminating the problem of drilling and hitting an existing screw.
Gary
View attachment 54884

Thanks Gary,
I'm in Peterborough, Ontario, the birthplace of my canoe. Product recommendations for Canada are appreciated!

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I start with boiled linseed oil and then thin it some by guess and by golly. I will thin with turp if I have any on hand, otherwise I use mineral spirits. I'm not married to one or the other. But I always get some varnish on the inside first, before anything else. At least the first three coats. That way the interior is safe from stains coming through or otherwise.