Re- canvas canoe with sponsons
- Thread starter Meade
- Start date
Dave Osborn
LIFE MEMBER
I used the search function using "canvas sponson" and found this:
http://forums.wcha.org/knowledgebase/BuildRestore:Canvassing+sponsons?highlight=Canvas+sponsons
After skimming the article, it is pretty much how I've done it. It's good to take the canvas off of a sponson canoe with the same approach a crime scene or archeological dig....trying to figure out how it was done by removing the old canvas...guess that's how I learned.
It is tedious, adds a lot of time to painting and sanding, and quite possibly totally unnecessary.....but the do look kinda cool on some canoes and rowboats.
http://forums.wcha.org/knowledgebase/BuildRestore:Canvassing+sponsons?highlight=Canvas+sponsons
After skimming the article, it is pretty much how I've done it. It's good to take the canvas off of a sponson canoe with the same approach a crime scene or archeological dig....trying to figure out how it was done by removing the old canvas...guess that's how I learned.
It is tedious, adds a lot of time to painting and sanding, and quite possibly totally unnecessary.....but the do look kinda cool on some canoes and rowboats.
Last edited:
Sanding vs stripper
The 1935 canoe looks to have never been re-varnished since the job done at the factory. There is no varnish build up anywhere and the finish can be completely removed with 220 grit and pretty much just powders off. Of course the wood has darkened with age but from some of the reading I have done this color will not change too much even with stripper. So...I was thinking of sanding the wood to clean it all up and then wiping down with a good cleaner solvent and re-varnishing without using stripper.
Also there is one repair to the canvas that is near the bow that needs to be addressed before it should go in the water. If it makes any sense to go ahead with my varnish idea rather than stripping then I would like to repair the canvas spot to make it water tight. Then I could use the canoe this fall and then take on the canvas job this winter.
Any thoughts on the sanding/varnish without taking the stripper route and how to repair the canvas spot at the bow would be appreciated.
I have attached a couple of photos if that helps.
Thanks for any advice,
Meade
The 1935 canoe looks to have never been re-varnished since the job done at the factory. There is no varnish build up anywhere and the finish can be completely removed with 220 grit and pretty much just powders off. Of course the wood has darkened with age but from some of the reading I have done this color will not change too much even with stripper. So...I was thinking of sanding the wood to clean it all up and then wiping down with a good cleaner solvent and re-varnishing without using stripper.
Also there is one repair to the canvas that is near the bow that needs to be addressed before it should go in the water. If it makes any sense to go ahead with my varnish idea rather than stripping then I would like to repair the canvas spot to make it water tight. Then I could use the canoe this fall and then take on the canvas job this winter.
Any thoughts on the sanding/varnish without taking the stripper route and how to repair the canvas spot at the bow would be appreciated.
I have attached a couple of photos if that helps.
Thanks for any advice,
Meade
Attachments
Dave Osborn
LIFE MEMBER
Your new coats of varnish are only as good as what is underneath it. I'd be concerned about adhesion of new varnish over old that seems powdery. Certainly sanding would help, but can you really get all the nooks and crannies?
That said, I have sanded old varnish that looked like it was pretty good, then added a couple of coats of new varnish with good success.
If you plan to canvas in the winter and your canvas issue is as the photo shows under the gunwale tips.....why bother fixing that...? It is waaay above the waterline.
That said, I have sanded old varnish that looked like it was pretty good, then added a couple of coats of new varnish with good success.
If you plan to canvas in the winter and your canvas issue is as the photo shows under the gunwale tips.....why bother fixing that...? It is waaay above the waterline.
Greg Nolan
enthusiast
If you are worried that the hole in the canvas might get caught on something and tear further before you canvas this winter, a short strip of the good old all-purpose universal remedy -- duct tape -- might be applied. Stick it to the underside of the outwale as well as to the canvas, and it will keep out any splashed water and protect against any further ripping. I won't look very elegant, but for the short time you are talking about, it will give adequate protection for almost no time and effort.
Greg
Greg
Dave Osborn
LIFE MEMBER
Go paddle...enjoy the fall!
