Inwale angle cutting jig

[Dave Aukes]

Does anyone use a jig or fixture to cut the angle on the inwales before installing?

 

[Michael Grace]

I suspect that most people simply run the stock past a tilted tablesaw blade, or through a bandsaw with the table tilted at the appropriate angle.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I use a pull saw for a long scarf angle on the inwale tip, removing any nails that might be in the way.
i then use the piece that I removed as a pattern and rough out a piece with matching grain on the band saw.
i then use a table top belt sander to fit and finish the new piece.
The new piece is epoxied and clamped. Done. A lot of “eyeballing” but it works for me.

 

[Dave Aukes]

Wow Dave that is an amazing repair job. Thank you for the reply and photos.

Also Michael thanks for your feed back.

 

[Michael Grace]

Dave A. - I was assuming you were referring to cutting an angle along the entire length of an inhale, correct? An angle so that the ribs meet the gunwale in a manner that allows the gunwale to sit level in the canoe? If so, then cutting on tablesaw or bandsaw are probably the easiest ways to do this. If you were referring to splicing in tips, the Dave O's approach above is great.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Oops….! I think I misread the original post.
yes, rip the angle with a table saw. Take note that the angle on most inwales terminates at about where the deck goes. So after you rip the full length angle, you’ll likely plane the last of the angle off starting near the deck to make it flat.

 

[Dave Aukes]

I'm sorry fellas that was a poor post on my part.
The credit goes to both of you, Michael and Dave O for making sense of what I was asking.

Yes, I want the inwales to be level, so the table saw or band saw sounds like the best way to cut the angle for that. I thought maybe someone had come up with a fixture to clamp to table that would capture the inwale and hold it secure as it passed by the blade.
Since I'm a one-man operation I will just use several feather boards to stop the inwale from lifting off the table as it passes the blade and some roller stands to manage those 20 ft "wet noodles"
I'm working on an 18 ft square stern (see my other previous post "Inwale to rib angle") so the angle does change as it goes to the bow.
I like Dave's suggestion to angle the full length of the inwale then adjust the angle where needed with a hand plane.
Thank you again fellas.
Cheers

 

[Michael Grace]

That's exactly what I do, Dave - use featherboards to keep the stock flat on the table and tight to the fence as it passes by the blade. Cut stock wide enough for two inwales (plus sawkerf and a bit for planing or sanding), and then bisect it with the blade set at the appropriate angle. That way you'll get both inwales with only one pass through the blade. Do the same thing for outwales. Then clean up the inside face and plane down the ends to an appropriate taper at the ends and (as Dave O said) you can modify the angle as needed.

Trust your judgement. You're thinking right. One of the satisfying things about doing this kind of work is finding solutions and making them work for you.

 

[Dave Aukes]

Thanks Michael, we'll just keep our head down and keep plowing forward with hopes to end up on the water someday.