alick burt
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Hello Folks
Some months ago I took delivery of a form for a 16ft wood canvas prospector.
The form has been made by its previous owner and he had also begun planking.During a lull in my other activities I continued with the planking using yellow cedar which he had bought and prepared.
I found this really difficult as the planks kept splitting despite soaking with swabs of boiling water and attempts with a steam iron.It seemed many splits occurred on the final few blows of the hammer when trying to make the tack heads flush.After much trial and error I had reached a stage of about half the planking being complete with some minor cracks in the ends on some.
Then I got busy with other work and it sat untouched for a few months.
I now find myself away from the workshop in lock down but I expect that when things improve I will not be overwhelmed with work so will have time to continue with this canoe once my outstanding work is completed.
The last time I looked at it I noticed even more cracks in the planks as they had dried out.I am thinking if I was to replace all the cracked planks I will be almost starting again as even those that aren't too bad still have maybe one or two cracks half an inch long where the tacks are.
Before anyone asks I did pre-drill the planking and sorry but I haven't any pictures yet though once I get back to the workshop I may take some.
Other thoughts I have had is that the planking may have been too dry.I have noticed that it was kiln dried which could explain the problems.
Now to my questions.
1.Should I soak the planking before fitting it? I was reluctant to do this as I was thinking it would expand and then make big gaps between planks when it eventually dries?
2.Should I remove/replace all the cracked planks still on the hull or can the cracks be filled in any way?
3.Am I on a hiding to nothing using kiln dried timber?
4.Should I actually boil the planking? I read that Joe Seliga did this...
5.Finally I have some areas towards the bow and stern where it looks like I will need some long thin tapered pieces between planks and am wondering how this will be achieved or should I also re think my planking pattern to avoid them? Once again sorry I don't have pictures yet.
6.Should I reduce the width of my planking? it is currently around 2.5 inches.
Thank you in advance all help gratefully received.
Stay safe.
Alick
Some months ago I took delivery of a form for a 16ft wood canvas prospector.
The form has been made by its previous owner and he had also begun planking.During a lull in my other activities I continued with the planking using yellow cedar which he had bought and prepared.
I found this really difficult as the planks kept splitting despite soaking with swabs of boiling water and attempts with a steam iron.It seemed many splits occurred on the final few blows of the hammer when trying to make the tack heads flush.After much trial and error I had reached a stage of about half the planking being complete with some minor cracks in the ends on some.
Then I got busy with other work and it sat untouched for a few months.
I now find myself away from the workshop in lock down but I expect that when things improve I will not be overwhelmed with work so will have time to continue with this canoe once my outstanding work is completed.
The last time I looked at it I noticed even more cracks in the planks as they had dried out.I am thinking if I was to replace all the cracked planks I will be almost starting again as even those that aren't too bad still have maybe one or two cracks half an inch long where the tacks are.
Before anyone asks I did pre-drill the planking and sorry but I haven't any pictures yet though once I get back to the workshop I may take some.
Other thoughts I have had is that the planking may have been too dry.I have noticed that it was kiln dried which could explain the problems.
Now to my questions.
1.Should I soak the planking before fitting it? I was reluctant to do this as I was thinking it would expand and then make big gaps between planks when it eventually dries?
2.Should I remove/replace all the cracked planks still on the hull or can the cracks be filled in any way?
3.Am I on a hiding to nothing using kiln dried timber?
4.Should I actually boil the planking? I read that Joe Seliga did this...
5.Finally I have some areas towards the bow and stern where it looks like I will need some long thin tapered pieces between planks and am wondering how this will be achieved or should I also re think my planking pattern to avoid them? Once again sorry I don't have pictures yet.
6.Should I reduce the width of my planking? it is currently around 2.5 inches.
Thank you in advance all help gratefully received.
Stay safe.
Alick