Having done that job on multiples of both rib and plank and strip canoes I can tell you that the job is substantially more tricky on rib and plank hulls. The fabric will bridge small cracks between planks and dents where there are tack heads OK, but when saturated they tend to drain the resin through these cracks or dents, leaving what looks like screen wire in those spots when the resin hardens. Resin filler coats will not generally fix the problems and trying to get these spots filled, sealed and fixed is extremely difficult - substantially more so if you are attempting to make a clear finish where you can't use typical resin filler compounds.
So if the job is going to work you will need to be sure that the surface is truly free of cracks, dents and other imperfections. My choice for resin is WEST 105/207 for clear finishes, WEST 105/205 for finishes which will be painted. For fiberglass, I use a full layer of six ounce cloth over a partial layer which doubles up the glass on the bottom, both saturated at the same time. With painted hulls, we could always go in and fill the planking gaps and tack dents with a dark epoxy filler before glassing. Unfortunately, there aren't any crystal clear epoxy fillers, with the exception of resin which is starting to stiffen up, and it gets pretty tricky and unpredictable to work with.
Final thought is that yes, the clear finish shows the wood, but to anyone who knows much about wooden boatbuilding (or all wooden traditional canoes) the typical wood/canvas planking pattern is curious at best and a real abomination at worst. It screams fiberglass covering, because that pattern would never work well on a real stand-alone wooden hull. To each his own, but personally I'd much rather show the wood where it was originally intended to show and cover the outside with a nice paint job.
My WEST epoxy/fiberglass covered 1972 Old Town Guide