Decals

[Denis M. Kallery]

Seeking advice on what might be the best way to protect delicate old decals from further damage.
Thanks, Denis

 

[Benson Gray]

My guess would be a good marine varnish with substantial ultravilolet inhibitors but others may be able to offer a more informed suggestion.

Benson

 

[David McDaniel]

decal

Denis
A gentle cleaning with mineral sprits,a lite scuffing with scotchbrite,
and a few coats of varnish has always worked for me.
later Dave

 

[Denis M. Kallery]

Thanks Gents. I was thinking that because varnishes that contain oils tend to yellow that perhaps following Dave's advise for cleaning and the several coats of quality water based exterior varnish -just over the decal. Water based varnishs tend to stay clear so no [or very little] yellowing to further obsure the decal. Thoughts?
Denis

 

[MikeCav]

Thanks Gents. I was thinking that because varnishes that contain oils tend to yellow that perhaps following Dave's advise for cleaning and the several coats of quality water based exterior varnish -just over the decal. Water based varnishs tend to stay clear so no [or very little] yellowing to further obsure the decal. Thoughts?
Denis

Water varnishes are not good for outdoor applications, they cannot be topcoated in future varnishings, and because they form a plastic like layer, when they peel (and they will) might bring your decal with it. They will also become cloudy when exposed to sunlight.

Might try a couple of coats of de-waxed clear shellac (like Zinzer Sealcoat)with a thin coat of spar over the top. Shellac is compatible with most finishes and can be very clear.

I have an old OT deck (1929) with the remainants of a decal that was about to go to the burn pile - I'll hit it with some shellac to be sure it doesn't lift it and let you know.

 

[David McDaniel]

Decal

Denis;
When I referred to varnish I was thinking oil base spar varnish.
That is the only type that I use. If you are concerned about clarity,
I would recommend Captains it seams to be about the clearist, but
with a little less UV protection.
Later Dave

 

[Denis M. Kallery]

Thanks Mike! I'll be interested in your results.
Dave because I know that marine varnishes are oil based and will yellow is why I asked about the water based. Mikes suggestion about the shellac has promise. Thanks again guys. Denis

 

[Pete Mathews]

Denis;

When looking for an oil base marine varnish that won't yellow as much, and they all will to some degree, look for one that is a tong oil base rather than a linseed oil base. The tong oil will yellow less, and more slowly than linseed oil. The Captains is a linseed oil, Epiphanes (I believe) is a mixture of both. The Interlux Schooner used to be tong oil based as was the #95, (a very clear varnish, but one that contains Urethane) I'm not sure if it still is or not. I don't know about the Awlgrip one part varnishes but can find out.

 

[Denis M. Kallery]

Pete,
Thank-you for the information. It's amazing how many formulations there are.
Since I still have no shop so I have to wait till spring to do anything. There is plenty of time to make up my mind. Still have almost two feet of snow on the ground and as I write this it is 19 degrees with a stiff breeze.
Thanks again, Denis

 

[jrghaven]

Decal placement...

Figured I'd bring up this question in the old thread since it's on topic...

What's the proper placement location for OTC decals? I picked up my '67 restoration after the prior owner had already sanded it away (if it ever was there to begin with) - I've seen them listed in the WCHA store, but don't know if it "should" go on the fore or rear deck... Silly question, but I haven't the foggiest idea...

 

[Benson Gray]

What's the proper placement location for OTC decals?

Old Town decals are almost always placed in the middle of the bow deck as shown at http://forums.wcha.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=814&d=1128306709 and http://forums.wcha.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=391&d=1115179683 for example.

Benson