Dang it! linseed oil, spar varnish, thin don't thin.

[sam.p]

Ok. I am restoring my first wood and canvas canoe. Going very well so far. So lets talk some manner of product application to the outside hull prior to canvasing.

So linseed oil promotes mildew. Add a mildewside Sam.

Sam you idiot don't apply anything.

Apply thinned spar varnish. Thin it anywhere from 10% to 75%. Manufacturer #1 don't thin more than 10%. Manufacturer #2 don't dare thin it and don't expose it to water (yes they said this) ! What the heck!

Apply tung oil. Why doesn't it promote mildew?

and finally Heck no I'm not going to just fiberglass it.

Comments Please.

Cordilly
Sam

 

[sam.p]

Come on you guys. A bunch of you have read this and not one comment. Help me out here. Share some wisdom with me.

Cordially,
Sam

 

[Jan Bloom]

None of it hurts except fiberglass. Anything labelled tung oil is usually so cut with other stuff that there is very little tung oil. Cutting boiled linseed oil with pain thinner or mineral spirits is the historical prescription. Doesn't really hurt and the added midewcide always helps. If you are going to use spar varnish then make your own "danish oil", equal parts varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits/paint thinner, might as well throw the mildewcide. I read somewhere that the wood experts say that "oiling" really doesn't make old wood any more limber. Notice I said "wood experts" not canoeists. But then what do I know. Boiled linseed oil simply means that it has had a metallic drier added usually cobalt. Anything with an oil based mildewcide isn't going to hurt. A thin varnish or danish oil may protect the wood a bit better than cut linseed oil. Bottom line is to add a bit more protection to wood that is covered in canvas. I have tried them all and prefer mixing up my own with added mildewcide.

 

[sam.p]

Thank you Jan.

Note the "wood expert" at a spar varnish manufacturing company that told me not to get spar varnish wet. I'll always go with the canoeist recommendation .

Thanks
sam

 

[Jan Bloom]

What company was that. Spar varnishes were developed for coating woodwork on sailing vessels. Makes you wonder what he knows or doesn't know.

 

[sam.p]

Man"o war . Yikes

 

[sam.p]

thanks Jan. you are the only reply

 

[1905Gerrish]

Sam use Epifanes for varnish. Best stuff out there. Gloss or satin. I have used both. I also cut linseed oil before canvassing but you cant go wrong with tung oil. Tung oil is the base for Epifanes varnish. Good luck!

 

[Andre Cloutier]

If you are asking what to apply to the outside of the hull before canvassing, I've always put a few coats of varnish. Tung oil goes on any restoration i do when the hull has been bleached entirely, before varnish. Hope that helps, best of luck

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Sam,

You are overthinking this, it's just a canoe, one that hopefully you'll use and get wet.

Do we all have different options about what materials and methods are "best" in the repair of old canoes, sure.

But it's still just an old canoe, oil it, or not, put on some varnish, stretch some canvas, get it filled and painted and use it.

Oh, if you end up like most of us, you'll have many more chances to play the "what is best" game. And you might even change your mind from time to time.

And keep posting pics of we can play along too.

Dan

 

[sam.p]

Thanks Dan.

I needed that. I forgot to put in my profile that I am King of the Nerds and over-think and analyze everything. I am going to post a separate thread showing progress on the canoe from the beginning when I found it and it looked like this slathered in bondo and fiberglass resin.



Thanks
Sam