50 Pound Model Canvas

[shelldrake]

Hello everyone......I have finished the repairs to my Old Town 50 Pounder and am ready to move on to the canvas replacement. One end of the boat is asymmetrical with respect to the fullness of the hull shape. There is a concave hollow in the bow (about 3/8") on one side, whereas the opposing side is full and convex in shape. I assume that one of the cant ribs on the hollow side is flatter in shape than it's opposing mate on the other side. I'm not overly concerned about the shape, but I'm wondering if the stretched canvas will follow the convex shape, or if the canvas will end up bridging the gap and stand off the hull in that area? Should I remove and replace the offending cant rib and try to change the shape?

Also, any tips on constructing the canvas clamps for stretching would be appreciated.

Thanks You

 

[Splinter]

My 50 pounder

I had a similar situation on my 50 pounder. By all means take the time now to replace those can't ribs that are wonky! It was worth it. I would say more about the experience I had of restoring that boat but will hold back as I am sure an expert will tell me I'm stupid.

 

[Andy Hutyera]

Hey!

The only dumb question is the one you didn't ask!!

 

[Scot T]

Timely question! I'm about to tackle a 16' Greenwood with the same issue and have been swaying back and forth..."to replace or not to replace that is the question".

I'd be interested what some of the "Old Timers" have to say about it as well. Anyone tried to put a curve back in without taking the rib out?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

for sake of argument

I'm not an expert and I am pretty sure I am dumber than Margaret, but for the sake of argument i'll offer my opinion. You may be the only one to notice that the shape is off side to side. And if so, and if you can live with it, then leave it. If it is lumpy then I'd say, with Margaret, that you'll be glad you fixed it. The canvas probably would lay against the side fine as long as you pull it just right when you apply it. I have a canoe where the canvas in the quarter just barely is NOT touching the wood and no problem in 10 plus years.

As for canvas clamps. Here's what I do. Four 2x4's. If the canvas is 60" wide, then the 2x4's should be longer than 32" long, closer to 36", not critical. dado two of them. Attach a strip of wood to the other two that mate slightly smaller than the dado. The dado and strip will cause the canvas to make a couple turns as you capture the canvas ends in the clamps and you get no slippage. Without the dado and extra strip of wood you might get slippage. A bolt at each end (4). A length of rope makes a bridle tied to each end. Clear as mud? A pic is worth a thousand words----

 

[shelldrake]

Well......I thought I posted a reply earlier today, but since I don't see it here, I must have thought about it but not acted upon it. I do this sort of thing more and more as the years go by. Anyway, thanks for the replies to my questions, and thanks for the pics Dave. I wondered about the canvas slipping between the jaws of the clamp. I used a straight edge on the offending side today and discovered that it is only 1/4" out (or in depending which side is the correct one!) from the other side. So, I'm going to leave it be.

Thanks again.

 

[MikeCav]

Here is a crude drawing of another version of what Dave mentioned. I didn't dado - just screwed strips to the wood. I used big ol' C clamps to hold the mess together.

 

[pat chapman]

I have never bothered with a dado in the 2x4s. I just staple the canvas to one of them, then clamp the other on top of it. After canvassing dozens of canoes, I've never had the canvas pull out.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

brilliant

Pat, that's a brilliant idea but aren't those staples getting expensive? ;-] there must be a dozen ways to skin canoes and cats. You should also post that one in tips/tricks.