Some folks like to pre-coat the hull with resin before glassing, others just lay the dry glass cloth on the bare wood and saturate through it in one step. Both techniques work. If you do pre-coat though, wait on applying the fiberglass until the pre-coat has hardened enough that you won't disturb it, and it is neither still sticky or going to come off on the cloth as you unroll and position it. You don't want small spots of nearly hardened resin coming off of the pre-coat and onto the cloth. They can inhibit the proper saturation of the cloth with fresh resin as you do your glassing. Depending on the speed of your hardener, the amount of time it takes your pre-coat to harden enough to start the next step without getting stuck in the pre-coat can be anywhere from a half hour to several hours.
On baby-butt-smooth new wood (which is pretty much what your prepared stripper hull should look like before glassing) I don't usually pre-coat the wood. I lay dry cloth on dry wood and work the resin into it with a roller and a squeegee made from a 1/2" thick slab of ethafoam packing foam. I either start at one end and work toward the other, or start in the middle and work outward in all directions, using a continuous stream of small batches of freshly mixed resin. One of the best ways to insure success is to have a person you can trust who does nothing but mix those resin batches for you while you apply them. Trying to both apply it and rushing to mix accurate resin/hardener batches yourself as you do is a frequent source of glassing problems on boat forums - and those goofs are really hard to fix.
Once the cloth is on and all properly saturated with no bubbles or dry spots it should be down tight to the hull (not floating in pools of excess resin) and your surface should have a very uniform cloth texture from your squeegeeing. The next step is to hang around for as long as it takes for this resin to harden. It is possible for the wood to wick resin out of the cloth in places, leaving white-ish dry spots of fiberglass cloth. As your fiberglass layers cure you want to be constantly checking the hull, and if needed, adding a bit more resin to any dry spots that appear. This is your only chance to fix these places without major surgery, so don't just stick the glass on, close the door and walk away. If anything in this case, I would think that since it is more dense than most stripper woods, the walnut might be less prone to wicking resin than cedar, spruce, etc. Once the glass hardens enough that you can work on it without the cloth being disturbed, you're ready to start your filler coats to fill the cloth texture.