Open Gunwale Geometry and Process

[Spokeshave]

Hi everyone,

I bought a nearly-completed, new Morris, and I'm working to finish it off. However, the outwales are giving me a serious case of analysis paralysis. Maybe someone here could advise me?

I bought the Woodenboat Store plans for this canoe, and they show a cross section through the D-shaped gunwales. I'd like to do a more square profile (this canoe will not be very authentic), but I'm not sure how to go about shaping them. My best guess is:

1. Take bevel measurements at regular intervals along the canoe, and bevel the inboard face of the outwale to match. This will allow the top of the gunwale to be level.

2. Taper the ends. Not sure how much to taper them. Maybe down to 3/4" square at the ends? The plan shows them at 1 1/4" x 1 1/8" amidships, which seems huge.

3. Rabbet the inside face of the outwale 1/4" deep to cover the upper edge of the planking.

4. Steam bend the sweep of the shear.

5. Attach to the boat. (Is steam necessary for this lateral bend?)

Anyway, if anyone could comment on this series of steps it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Dan

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I'll take a stab at it: The taper is optional, how you want to do it. Assuming you're not doing an exact replica. I take the bevel at a point halfway from the center to the end and cut the outwale and rabbet to that angle, I then level the top of the rails with a belt sander. Most rails require steam bending and I'n guessing your Morris will too. I will often attach the outwale amidships and work along to the ends steaming as I go. I use a camper sewer hose as it is flexible and collapsable at the same time. A morris outwale may be better bent by pre-bending over a form made up of two or three pieces of plywood sawn to slight more than the bend to allow for a little spring back. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask for clarification.

 

[Spokeshave]

Thanks Dave, your method seems fairly straightforward. Actually, in researching this topic I've read several threads about your very clever sewer-hose steamer. I think I'm going to give it a try...

Just one follow-up: the Morris does have a lot of sweep in the sheer, so I may have to pre-bend on a form as you suggest. But the gunwales are also pretty thick, so I may have to steam the rest of their length as well. Do you think I could steam the ends and then re-steam the whole thing without messing up my previous bend? Or maybe just steam the heck out of the ends with the sewer hose and bend the whole thing in one go? (I'd like to simplify the process as much as possible, as I'm trying to get this thing in the water for the 4th of July fireworks here in Boston.)

Thanks again for your help!

-Dan

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I think i'd proceed with deliberate caution. If you make one form you can bend one end of the two outwales at once. You could bend both ends by making two forms. A second steaming is not what I'd do. I once bent a rib backwards when I was tired. Out of curiosity i rebent it the other way. I think a second steaming for the mid would undo the ends if they were subjected to more steam. For the sideways bend along the length I'd go slowly and gradually. Wrap in hot towels and boiling water if they need it. A canoe form would come in handy as you could do the whole thing at a time.

 

[Larry Meyer]

Steve Lapey (Norumbega chair) and John Fitzgerald have quite a bit of experience with this. I know they are both away just now on a trip to Maine. If you want some hands-on counsel I'm sure they would oblige.

 

[Spokeshave]

Okay, I think I'm going to try to bend the whole outwale at once using Dave's camper hose method. Just one more question: should I taper the gunwales first, or bend. First and try to taper them once they're bent? Tapering the bent gunwales sounds pretty difficult. Would pre-tapered wood be easier to bend, or just more prone to breaking?


I'll post pics of either the triumphant finished product or the dismal wreckage...

 

[Dave Wermuth]

When tapering after bending, I use a spoke shave. tapering before should make the wood easier to bend, to my way of thinking. Especially if tapered in thickness (depth) top/bottom. If it's deeper than it is wide, then it could result in the aforementions dismal wreckage. Either way, you'll be alot smarter after. Or at least more experienced. think of bending a popsicle stick on the flat or on the edge....

I generally do not taper. Unless the canoe requires it, like on the IG I should be working on.

 

[Spokeshave]

Well, I do have a spokeshave...

Dave, what are the dimensions of a non-tapered gunwale on a 17' boat? The reason I decided to taper mine was because of the information in the plans for the Morris. It shows a cross section of 1 1/4" wide by 1 1/8" tall amidships. I think this would be absurdly thick at the bow and stern, so I decided to taper. All the photos I see of old Morris canoes have outwales that are really skinny at the ends. However, I like the idea of it being all one (thinner) thickness the whole length of the boat. (I also like the idea of omitting a step...)

 

[Greg Nolan]

check your private messages.

And for what it may be worth to you, here is how Morris showed the cross-section shape of its gunwales in the catalogues:

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I don't know the numbers for Morris 'wales. I mostly make my rails 7/8" x 7/8" The type of canoe dictates the final numbers depending on tumblehome bevel. For Morris, etc., I'd try to make them like the originals, see above by Greg Nolan.