Cracked ribs

[Tom Wiarda]

I am just starting to restore my first canoe, a 1939 OT Yankee. I knew I would need to repair the two stems where they had rotted and replace the outwales. When I stripped the varnish I found a few cracked ribs. Two are next to each other near the front and one on the other side near the rear. Nothing moves and there is no damage or distortion to the planking. The planking is in good condition and I fear I would cause a lot of damage trying to remove the cracked ribs. Do they need to be replaced? Would it help to put a fiberglass patch on the outside over the area where the cracked ribs are as reinforcement? I was going to put a 6" strip of fiberglass over the stems to strengthen this area. Is this a good idea? Thanks, Tom

 

[Benson Gray]

I am not a professional restorer of wooden canoes but the best solution is generally to replace the cracked ribs. Another option is to remove the planking over the crack and make a 'back side repair' that involves cutting away some of the rib around the crack and gluing in a hardwood reinforcement. A fiberglass patch on the cracked ribs or stems would probably be one of the worst possible solutions for many reasons. Leaving the broken ribs would be a better alternative than adding a fiberglass patch in my opinion. Other people here with more experience may be able to offer better suggestions.

Benson

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Hi Tom

Congratulations on your first project. Here's my opinion with the disclaimer that it's your canoe and you can do anything you want.

Fiberglass is a real bad idea. The goop is like frozen snot and it locks in moisture and ruins the wood under it. Also as an aside never let silicone get near your canoe either. If the canvas is off or will be coming off then you can do a backside rib repair or replacement. I've done both. A backside rib repair requires that tacks be removed from the area to get the planking off and that leaves holes in the ribs. That may or may not be an issue depending on your taste. When you put the planks back on it's impossible to put the tacks in the same hole. I suggest replacement. It's not that hard, even I can do it. There are about 60 tacks that hold planking to each rib. You wiggle out the tack with a tack puller being careful to twist it out the way it wants to come, that is, with the curl of the tack. You can feel it. But before you do that Make up the ribs you need and steam or boil them and bend them over the outside of the canoe about one or two ribs from the cracked one so that when it goes to the inside it'll fit. One or two ribs closer to the stem that is. Remove one rib at a time and replace it one at a time so's you don't get a lumpy canoe. Any minor marks on the outside of the canoe on the planking will be covered later by the canvas and the inside is of course new. As far as the stems are concerned you can cut back the bad wood and splice in some new. It's ok to use epoxy when splicing.

We like to see photos of projects as they go along so post on your project?

Good luck. Are you far from Flint area?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Hi Tom

Congratulations on your first project. Here's my opinion with the disclaimer that it's your canoe and you can do anything you want.

Fiberglass is a real bad idea. The goop is like frozen snot and it locks in moisture and ruins the wood under it. Also as an aside never let silicone get near your canoe either. If the canvas is off or will be coming off then you can do a backside rib repair or replacement. I've done both. A backside rib repair requires that tacks be removed from the area to get the planking off and that leaves holes in the ribs. That may or may not be an issue depending on your taste. When you put the planks back on it's impossible to put the tacks in the same hole. I suggest replacement. It's not that hard, even I can do it. There are about 60 tacks that hold planking to each rib. You wiggle out the tack with a tack puller being careful to twist it out the way it wants to come, that is, with the curl of the tack. You can feel it. But before you do that Make up the ribs you need and steam or boil them and bend them over the outside of the canoe about one or two ribs from the cracked one so that when it goes to the inside it'll fit. One or two ribs closer to the stem that is. Remove one rib at a time and replace it one at a time so's you don't get a lumpy canoe. Any minor marks on the outside of the canoe on the planking will be covered later by the canvas and the inside is of course new. As far as the stems are concerned you can cut back the bad wood and splice in some new. It's ok to use epoxy when splicing.

We like to see photos of projects as they go along so post on your project?

Good luck. Are you far from Flint area?

 

[Dave Wermuth]

oops

On tack re-placement: I mispoke. maybe not impossible, but tricky. And I must have dbl clicked when I shoulda' single clicked? Sorry

 

[Canerodz]

Rockford is north of GR near the Rogue, White and Muskegon

 

[Tom Wiarda]

Thanks for your replies and the advice. I was starting to think that no one would respond to my post. Yes, I live about a mile from both the Rogue and Grand rivers. I kayak on them using the cedar strip kayak I built a few years ago. I hope to be canoeing by spring in my newly restored Old Town. So far I have been working on repairing the decks and stems. Based on your advice I will soon tackle the rib replacement. I'm sure I will be asking for more advice. I got inspired to restore a canoe after seeing demonstrations at the Clear Water Symposium in Lansing and the Wooden Boat Show in South Haven this summer. nThanks, Tom

 

[Canerodz]

There is a wooden boat group in South Haven (find the Padnos Boat House) that has knowledgeable individuals and a big steamer set-up.

I have found the WCHA members to be about the most helpful internet group in existence. There is a real desire to keep these old boat on the water. And we all love pictures of your projects!

Best of Luck!