Still trying to get started on Skeezik, kitchen still not done. As for the filler ,I found a new material to replace the silica in the home made filler.I have the white lead to make it with and went to Fiberglass Coatings today and they suggested using what they use as a filler without a lot of weight.It is called Fumbed Silica a very fine powder 1/10 the weight of 340 silica and looks a lot like talc powder. What do you think? Griffing
Fillers
- Thread starter griffing
- Start date
jeffjohnson
Hoosier Canoeist
griffing,
I have filled several canoes replacing the typical powdered silica, with fumed silica (Cab-O-Sil)…with good results. You can reduce weight by about 6lbs per gallon of filler. The only drawback is you lose a little in the slate like hardness you have with the powdered silica. Not an issue for me. It’s important not to mix any filler too thick or it will crack and fissure creating a pathway for water to blister your outer enamel. Fumed silica is almost weightless so you have to eyeball, add a little at a time, and wear a good particle mask when mixing. Basically I try to thicken the filler back to the consistency the alkyd enamel was before I thinned it with mineral spirits and linseed oil. Here is the filler recipe I have on my daily driver. This makes about a gallon, or enough for a seventeen footer.
-44fl.oz boiled linseed oil
-20fl.oz mineral spirits
-36fl.oz alkyd enamel
-4fl.oz Zinsser mildew inhibitor
2fl.oz Jap drier
120fl.oz approx Cab-o-Sil
I have filled several canoes replacing the typical powdered silica, with fumed silica (Cab-O-Sil)…with good results. You can reduce weight by about 6lbs per gallon of filler. The only drawback is you lose a little in the slate like hardness you have with the powdered silica. Not an issue for me. It’s important not to mix any filler too thick or it will crack and fissure creating a pathway for water to blister your outer enamel. Fumed silica is almost weightless so you have to eyeball, add a little at a time, and wear a good particle mask when mixing. Basically I try to thicken the filler back to the consistency the alkyd enamel was before I thinned it with mineral spirits and linseed oil. Here is the filler recipe I have on my daily driver. This makes about a gallon, or enough for a seventeen footer.
-44fl.oz boiled linseed oil
-20fl.oz mineral spirits
-36fl.oz alkyd enamel
-4fl.oz Zinsser mildew inhibitor
2fl.oz Jap drier
120fl.oz approx Cab-o-Sil
Jeff,
To what point do I add the white lead that I have? Do I use 50/50 fumed silica and white lead? My paint guy also recomended that I use VMP naptha instead of mineral spirits as it also will help to dry the filler better.Insl Tex paint also make a high solid oil base paint that I intend to tryout with.
Charley Morgan the boat builder said that he might be able to come up with a different type of filler that he used in his early days of boat building here in St Petersburg. He suggested using Dacron which would not rot and his type of filler, not epoxy or polyester either.Petit paint makes a single part epoxy enamel ,which is used on a lot of wooden boats might come up as a second type of finish. Grover
To what point do I add the white lead that I have? Do I use 50/50 fumed silica and white lead? My paint guy also recomended that I use VMP naptha instead of mineral spirits as it also will help to dry the filler better.Insl Tex paint also make a high solid oil base paint that I intend to tryout with.
Charley Morgan the boat builder said that he might be able to come up with a different type of filler that he used in his early days of boat building here in St Petersburg. He suggested using Dacron which would not rot and his type of filler, not epoxy or polyester either.Petit paint makes a single part epoxy enamel ,which is used on a lot of wooden boats might come up as a second type of finish. Grover
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jeffjohnson
Hoosier Canoeist
Grover
I can’t recommend adding lead to paint. At some point you will be sanding this stuff, and it will be in your lungs, eyes, clothing, and around your shop. Instead, I use half a packet of Zinnser in each gallon, but I don’t think mildew protection is really a big issue anymore. We tend not to store our canoes out in the weather like they did in the good old days. I can't help with your other questions.
I can’t recommend adding lead to paint. At some point you will be sanding this stuff, and it will be in your lungs, eyes, clothing, and around your shop. Instead, I use half a packet of Zinnser in each gallon, but I don’t think mildew protection is really a big issue anymore. We tend not to store our canoes out in the weather like they did in the good old days. I can't help with your other questions.
