Glueing canvas to canvas

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Restorers
I'd like to repair rotted canvas at the ends of the canoe by removing the gunwales and stem bands, cutting out the rotted piece and slipping a new piece of treated canvas between the old good canvas and the hull. What adhesive should I use?

Thanks, Dan
 
Someone had posted not too long ago that they couldn't find ambroid glue and Northwoods Canoe lists it as unavailable. So I need a plan 'B'...
 
I've been googling all day for Ambroid cement to fix a tear in my canoe but it looks like its discontinued. Has anyone tried white gorilla glue? Its water activated so it shouldn't be a problem with in the field repairs on a damp hull. How about construction adhesive? Project grade or subfloor adhesive remain flexible. If you use wax paper, freezer paper or packing tape as a backing to keep the glue from sticking to the wood it seams like you could get away with any glue that is flexible and waterproof.
 
I ended up using epoxy. Cut out the rotted canvas; cut a patch from treated canvas and spread epoxy about an inch wide to it and slipped it behind the old canvas with the epoxy right up to the edge of the old canvas; used battens and clamps to hold; next day was able to grab the new patches with pliers, pull it taught and tack it in. Filled the new patched with West #410 and painted. Looks like a good hold and a lot less $ than recanvassing.
 
I've been googling all day for Ambroid cement to fix a tear in my canoe but it looks like its discontinued. Has anyone tried white gorilla glue? Its water activated so it shouldn't be a problem with in the field repairs on a damp hull. How about construction adhesive? Project grade or subfloor adhesive remain flexible. If you use wax paper, freezer paper or packing tape as a backing to keep the glue from sticking to the wood it seams like you could get away with any glue that is flexible and waterproof.

Gorilla Glue is going to foam as it cures; makes a heck of a mess. Nasty stuff...

Cliff
 
Ambroid is (was?) basically nitro-cellulose material dissolved in acetone and/or other solvents. Duco cement (aka model airplane glue), made by Devcon, is a very similar product, and should perform similarly. It has the advantages of being one part, relatively quick to dry, easily undone (acetone will dissolve it), and water resistant -- waterproof for all practical purposes. Epoxy would certainly be stronger, but would not be as convenient for a field repair. I've not used white Gorilla glue, but if it is anything like ordinary (brown) Gorilla glue, I would pass on it and use either Duco, Epoxy, or maybe Titebond 2 or 3.
 
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