Help support the WCHA Forums by making a tax-deductible donation!

Rebuild rotted tips

Discussion in 'Build and Restore' started by Treewater, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. Greg Nolan

    Greg Nolan enthusiast

    Larry, anyone who has done repair, maintenance, or restoration work on houses that are a few decades (or more) old knows that a carpenter's square, level, and plumb line don't insure that a house stays level, square or true, if it ever was. But just as old houses stay habitable, old canoes stay paddle-able -- and the kinks and twists and dents in both are simply signs of character.
  2. John Naylor

    John Naylor Curious about Wooden Canoes

    thanks for sharing good advice ..... two more weekends working on my kitchen , and i'll be relying on this thread rather heavily .....
  3. Bruce Whittington

    Bruce Whittington Curious about Wooden Canoes

    Another example of stem repair

    Hi all - I have learned a lot from this forum and wanted to share some progress that has come of it. I started to refurbish my 1972 Chestnut Cruiser this summer, beginning with stripping the canvas and replacing rotted tips (easier said than done!) Damage was not as extensive as I feared but still lots of cut-and-fit, cut-and-fit to mate compound angles. I cut new ash pieces for inwale and stem tips, and made new decks from maple. I went with the "second deck" approach, using scraps of maple flooring for this, which had grooves on the underside which I just left. I did not tenon the stem-to-inwale joint. There is a cleat to strengthen the stem tip splice - this was first screwed into the triangular sub-deck to tie things together. Then the replacement tips were epoxied at the joints and clamped, with wax paper to keep the deck from getting glued. When cured, the sub-decks were screwed from beneath to the inwale tips - on this Chestnut (maybe all?) the deck does not extend to the stem tip.The inwales were a little deeper than the deck thickness so there is a gap between the two "decks" which I didn't worry about. It's tight getting at screws underneath - I used a Milwaukee right-angle drill attachment that worked well, but you need a hex-shank drill bit and countersink. Check that the drill bit is long enough for the screws - you can't just pull it out to make it longer. I'm now running out of weather so have put the canoe inside for the winter, to be continued next summer. Thanks to those who contributed ideas to the forum and to this knowledgebase.

    Attached Files:

  4. Bruce Whittington

    Bruce Whittington Curious about Wooden Canoes

    Apologies - images for stem repair are in a forum post.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 5, 2015

Share This Page