Pickup Cab - Transport Mounts?

[Mark Mayer]

I'm hoping to get some feedback about any experience carrying canoes with racks mounted on an extended cab only (no T-bar support from the hitch). I have an F150 with a tonneau cover and would like to avoid the T-bar if possible, to allow access to the bed via the tailgate w/canoes onboard. It looks like I can get about 42" spacing between bars on top of the cab - I believe Yakima's minimum spec is less than 40". I have both a 17.5' and a 15' WC canoe, which I would like to carry together occasionally - but individually most of the time.
Bottom line - has anyone carried using only cab mounted bars? With any success?
I appreciate any info

 

[Ric Altfather]

Hi neighbor!

Mark,

Your just south of me...Strongsville.

I use the t-bar and love it...the longer the roof line the better for the canoe and your sanity. I have no problem with accessing my gear and I have a tilt FG top. I used foam blocks on a small car for years, 3 foot span and traveled from Ohio to Maine, Florida and Canada. With the short roof span you will need 2 ropes off the bow to each end of the bumper to stop the sideways movement from wind and semi's. Gunwale blocks on the roof bars would be recommended.

We have a group going out tomorrow down the designated State Scenic section of the Cuyahoga River...glad to be getting out.

Ric Altfather

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Rack news

When I called yakima they told me that a 30" spread was sufficient for a canoe over 14'. My new Jeep has 34" so we shall see. I plan to tie off the bow. Never had to do that with the old Grand Cherokee. It had a five foot spread. I always used a rule of thirds, more or less. Can't now unless I get creative by going off a grill guard, expensive. I could maybe put a t-bar rack off the front Grill guard like on my really old Jeep. Magicanoe has carried an 18'er on a Malibu with Q-clips and yak bars. So I think I shall change my idea on my rule of thirds.

 

[mark wismer]

I used to carry mine on a CJ5 jeep [1962 Willys] w/ Kelly All-Steel Cab. I used cheap pressed steel roof racks [Pep Boys] w/ a strip of pine added and rubber tarp straps. It worked w/ the front & rear tied to the bumpers.

I prefer the 7 foot span I get from the ladder racks on my pickup cap. I only use (2) small straps across the canoe @ each rack & I cover the rack w/ $0.99 pool 'noodles' from wally world sliced to fit & secured w/ a couple of loom ties.

For longer trips i use a rachet strap & short length of nylon rope from the thwarts & under the ladder racks. I put enough tension on the rachet strap to have the rails dent into the noodles 'bout 1/4". It just won't move...

 

[Greg Nolan]

I regularly carry my 16 foot canoe on my Outback wagon on Yakima rack bars that are 33" apart -- they have to be so close because I also have a Yakima rocket box mounted on the rack. I always run lines from the bow and stern to the towing loops under and behind the bumper, and have never had any problems, either on rough unpaved roads or at high speed on interstates, though buffeting from very heavy side winds can shake the canoe a bit. When the rocket box is not mounted, I am able to spread the bars to 42" and with this spacing, the canoe is really solid (again, with bow and stern lines).

 

[Mark Mayer]

Front loading? Sounds convenient....

I like Dave's idea of mounting a T-bar in the front. You get more of a spread on the distribution, and when it comes to loading or unloading - you aren't obstructing access to the bed in any way.
I'll have to Google a mounting method for a receiver in the front. I have plenty of metal stock, maybe I can find something on fabricating one to fit my Ford? If I do, I'll share - thanks everyone for your input! I knew I was coming to the right place

 

[Dave Wermuth]

The t-bar solution

I had a grill guard installed on my '90 Jeep Cherokee. I went to the local pick-up topper manufacturer and had them weld up two uprights with one top cross bar using the aluminum ladder rack square tubing. I then clamp the t- or was it an H? bar to the grill guard at the proper height and drilled quarter inch holes. the bottom of the bars had a piece of alum flat stock for that reason. Then bolts and wing nuts. Easy on/off. Worked perfect..

I think it would work real good for a pick up with fifth wheel or one rack on the cab and the t bar. then there is the old hitch on the front of the truck for launching your boat. Then get a t-bar that fits the hitch.

If you have two racks on the cab and they are 30" apart, you should be fine by tying off to the front.

I always wondered about a piece of stainless steel that stuck up between the hood and fender and was bolted to the fender bolt and it would look kinda like a nascar air fin, but shorter and with a hole for tying down.

 

[mark wismer]

I always wondered about a piece of stainless steel that stuck up between the hood and fender and was bolted to the fender bolt and it would look kinda like a nascar air fin, but shorter and with a hole for tying down.

I always had the doors off my CJ and the upper hinge was just above the side mirrors on the windshield frame. made a great place to run (2) straps down from the in-rail to stabilize the front end some. Used to tie off the front to the snow plow frame...