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looking for a sandpaper solution

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous' started by mccloud, Dec 23, 2017.

  1. mccloud

    mccloud Wooden Canoe Maniac

    I often use a Dremel Multi-Max vibrating tool as a sander, particularly on the inside of the canoe. The triangular base plate that Dremel provides is aluminum backed , rubber, with a velcro face. This plate is too big to fit in-between ribs in a typical w/c canoe, but if one cracked rib has been removed for replacement and I'm sanding in-between two ribs, that aluminum plate can quickly cut into the sides of the adjacent ribs, causing damage if I'm careless. I have found that I can cut wood blocks of all sizes to use in place of that aluminum plate, and wood does not cut into the sides of ribs. Softwood pine is too soft, so I have to use a dense, hard, wood. But there is a problem which happens with both the aluminum plate and the wood substitutes: if the sandpaper is held on with velcro I find that the fuzzy back quickly separates from the sandpaper, so I don't get long use from the sandpaper. I have tried using glue-backed sandpaper, which works until the glue gets warm, which happens quickly, and the paper peels off. Is there anybody out there who has overcome one or both of these sandpaper problems and will share your solution with me? It would save me a lot of time and a lot of spoiled sandpaper. Thanks. Tom McCloud
     
  2. Todd Bradshaw

    Todd Bradshaw Sailmaker

    There is a glue made for temporarily attaching regular sandpaper to sanders for auto body work. Norm Sims and I used to use it to attach paper sanding disks to the bare disk pads when we were building strippers. It will tolerate heat as the disk heats up while sanding. When the paper wears out you can peel it off, add a bit more glue if needed and stick another piece of paper on. It would be worth trying.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-08051-Feathering-Disc-Adhesive/dp/B000PF1PFE
     
  3. Michael Grace

    Michael Grace Lifetime Member

    Hi Tom - This is a case where I find that low tech works well. For the ribs I do use a sander with a home-made flexible but rather stiff pad, but for the planking and the sides of ribs I simply sand by hand. Yes it takes a while, but I just stay systematic about it and work from one section to another, knowing that every one I do is one step closer to being complete. When sanding planking between ribs initially before the first coats of varnish, I usually wrap sandpaper around a narrow, curved wooden block to keep the planking surface level. Between varnish coats is quick and easy by hand; this I often do without a sanding block but using a light, careful touch to avoid creating hollows and ridges in the finish. After building up some coats I switch back to a curved narrow block as a sandpaper backer to ensure the finish is level for a final coat.

    Michael
     
  4. David Satter

    David Satter LOVES Wooden Canoes

    For sticking sandpaper to wood blocks I just use a quick shot of spray glue in a can holds very well depending on the quality of the glue. A quick shot of this is also good for holding paper or cardboard patterns in place. I agree with Michael I've always sanded the inside of the canoes by hand, probably why my hands hurt and bursitis in my shoulder is there. My favorite thing after sandpaper is the 3m maroon scotch brite pads. their great on the hands and soft enough to mold to the uneven shapes, and cut them to any size you want. I buy them by the box from jamestown dist. their's different grades of course by color, but the maroon ones even though they seem rough don't leave scratch marks. their great between coats of varnish and paint. good luck, Dave
     
  5. OP
    OP
    mccloud

    mccloud Wooden Canoe Maniac

    I will give Todd's suggested 3M adhesive a try and report back later concerning how well it works for this application. Among several adhesives that I have already tried is DURO spray 01-81088. It does not take much vibration or heat before this lets loose of the paper. Perhaps David uses a different brand that is less heat sensitive. Epoxy works, but takes a long time to set, and then there is the problem of removing it and the paper before you can glue a fresh sheet on - though a belt sander can be used. For this old guy whose shoulder often aches, electrically assisted sanding is definitely in my future for the long-term. Tom McCloud
     
  6. Dan Miller

    Dan Miller cranky canoeist Staff Member

    MGC likes this.
  7. MGC

    MGC Scrapmaker

    I do too..these really work. I prefer them after they are "broken in" a bit. They can be a bit aggressive when they are new.
     
  8. Dave Osborn

    Dave Osborn LIFE MEMBER

    I’ve tried everything under the sun for sanding interiors...sanding stars, bowl sanders, wheels and flaps of every kind.
    I would find my self at the hardware store cruising the abrasives area looking for something new.....
    Here is what has actually worked quite well for me....
    I bought some extra bases for my DeWalt palm sander and epoxied some high density foam in various width and shapes on them. I’ve stuck on self adhesive hook and loop fabric that came in a sheet to these forms and purchased hook and loop sand paper in a roll to cut to the various shapes.
    In the photo you can see one that I use for sanding between most ribs on the sander. Next to that is a VEE shaped block that works well between half ribs. On the far left is a wider block that I’ve used on row boats with wider space between the ribs. They all have worked well and if you need a different shape or width, just make one..
     

    Attached Files:

  9. 1905Gerrish

    1905Gerrish LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Nice Dave, I like it!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    mccloud

    mccloud Wooden Canoe Maniac

    Over the past couple weeks I have been trying the 3M-08051-Feathering-Disc-Adhesive suggested by Todd. This product is a rather thin white liquid which reminds me of buttermilk. You apply it to a surface, spread it around, then wait 5-10 minutes until it somewhat solidifies, so like a contact adhesive, before applying the sandpaper. My surfaces have been hard maple which gets attached to a Dremel Multi-Max and to the foam pad of a DeWalt random orbital sander. The paper sticks on pretty good to both, and when you have to replace the paper, in general, the paper tears, so still sticking on good after use. Both regular sandpaper and the 'nonslip' kind with the coated back are well adhered. I have been sanding 100 year old cedar and the dust is very fine. This dust gets underneath the edges of the sandpaper, so the edges do gradually let loose. Although the glue in the center of the pad is still sticky, and would adhere a second or third sandpaper, I have to 'refresh' the edges where there is a lot of dust. 08051 works better than anything else that I have tried. Todd got it right, thanks! Tom McCloud
     
  11. fred capenos

    fred capenos Wooden Canoe Maniac

    Tom, ,
    If you are just scuffing the varnish, this works great for me. Cut up a rubber sanding block and cut strips from green Scotch Brite pads. The pad hangs on without glue, you save wear and tear on your fingers.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. David Satter

    David Satter LOVES Wooden Canoes

    I keep forgetting to post these, just cut to size a 3m sanding pad and use it upside down, works great. Has a nice curve to it.
    IMG_3542.JPG IMG_3544.JPG IMG_3545.JPG
     
  13. Michael Duffy

    Michael Duffy canoeist canoe builder

    I use a multi-function tool with a triangular sanding pad which you pointed out do not fit and cuts into the ribs. What I have done is cut the pad a little bit narrower than the width between the ribs with cut angled such that the metal is narrower than the bottom of the pad. The I trim the paper just wider than the pad It works great and reduces the stress on my hands (arthritis and carpal tunnel)
     

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