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Epoxy Resins

Discussion in 'Wood and Canvas' started by slk, Sep 6, 2019.

  1. Todd Bradshaw

    Todd Bradshaw Sailmaker

    No argument. Your post said "Fiberglass tape works well on the stems. " which it does not. Stems and "flat surfaces like the keel line" are not the same things and not even the same parts of the boat. If I see false information or bad advice posted, I'll flag it before somebody else follows it and ends up with a mess on their hands. Accuracy counts, especially when discussing a somewhat controversial subject which takes a fair bit of skill, knowledge and experience to do well and butchers a perfectly good canoe if done poorly.
     
  2. ppine

    ppine Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes

    So long. What it is like to always be right?
     
  3. Todd Bradshaw

    Todd Bradshaw Sailmaker

    When it is based on nearly fifty years of actual hands-on experience with the materials and techniques, some of them doing the exact job in question and learning how to turn out high quality results, it feels pretty darned good. Considering that when we started we didn't have websites, videos, associations and forums or even many books to provide information, much of what we learned was trial and error and not always successful or pretty. These days, those who are willing to listen, learn, and who can simply pay attention and follow directions can take a much more straightforward path to decent results.
    pu-paint.jpg st.jpg
     
    MGC likes this.
  4. Catawissa

    Catawissa New Member

    It is best to put your largest piece of fiberglass on the hull first. Then the stem band layers working down in size from largest to smallest. This leaves all of your edges exposed. The advantages are: 1) There is not a risen pocket under fiberglass at the edge of each overlap. 2) It allows you to sand down fairing each layer into the one below without sanding into and compromising the integrity and continuity of the fibers below.
     
  5. Todd Bradshaw

    Todd Bradshaw Sailmaker

    Some folks do, others of us prefer to put the smaller pieces underneath. The vast majority of the level change at the small piece's edges is then automatically feathered out as the bigger piece is saturated on top, and the filler coats added later are generally thick enough to make up any difference. This will allow sanding the surface smooth without cutting into the fiberglass cloth. A layer of fiberglass when properly applied (or even multiple layers) is a whole lot thinner than most people think it is. A couple layers of six ounce cloth once saturated and weave-filled ends up being about the same thickness as the side of a plastic milk jug. As a result, a step-down between layers is surprisingly small and won't need much feathering if done properly.
     

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