Cheeky question

[DavidK]

I need help forming my question. Please forgive my as I fumble through....

I'm looking at an early OT canoe and I'm trying to assess the condition of the canvas. As the canoe form comes to the ends, it bends inward before coming to the point. A friend of mine says this is called the "cheek?" I don't find much reference to that in my online search so I'm not sure. The stretch from the widest part of the canoe to the end points leaves the canvas away from the wooden hull. Is that normal or has it lifted away from the hull. Seems like the canvas would have had to be glued to hold it to the hull in that "cheek" area. What else would I look for in assessing the condition of the canvas?
Thanks, -David

 

[mccloud]

I've never heard the term cheek applied to any portion of the anatomy of a canoe. Where the hull recurves to the topside point where internal stem, inwales, outwales and deck come together is generally referred to as the stem tip. You say you are looking at an 'early' canoe. With proper care and storage, canvas might be expected to last 20-30-40 years, and then it has to be replaced. This gets done all the time, and although some effort is involved, it can be done by a moderately skilled home craftsman. Aside from obvious rips and holes thru the canvas, does it look crazed? If so probably needs new canvas before long. Does the canvas show separation at the base of the outwales? Has the canvas pulled away from the tacks that should attach it underneath the outwale? It is not uncommon for rot to occur up underneath the outwale. This can sometimes be fixed, but suggests that new canvas will be needed not far in the future. Sometimes some bagginess is seen in the canvas close to the stems. I've not heard of any builder gluing canvas to hull - you want everything to be able to flex. It happens, and occasionally can be removed by stretching the canvas upwards, but may not be a problem. If this canoe has not been in the water for awhile, the wood may have dried, and shrunk sufficiently, to give that bagginess. Getting moisture back into the wood does not happen fast, but if you keep it wet for a couple weeks ( old wet Levis, wet sawdust, etc. ) you might see less bagginess in the area you are concerned about. Or even better, paddle it for a few days. It's worth trying before doing anything more drastic. Tom McCloud

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Having a "concave" section near the ends in not uncommon, and yes, the canvas can be separated from the planking there.
It takes careful stretching in those areas to get/keep the canvas tight to the planking.
Canvas is a "maintenance" item, follow Tom's suggestions to determine if you should recanvas or just paddle it.
Dan

 

[DavidK]

Thanks for the very helpful information and suggestions, Tom and Dan.

 

[Howie]

I think you'll run into this situation on any canoe whose decks have a concave shape along their sides where they lie against the rails. This forms a compound curve shape in the hull in this area - sort of like the shape you get by sucking in your cheek. Pulling the canvas with a come-along causes the canvas to pull away from the hull in this area. This may be overcome by pulling the canvas 'up' toward the rails. If pulling 'up' doesn't work then you need to back off the come-along tension to reduce the tension in the canvas. It's a balancing act. And it makes for a very striking appearance. I know I've seen this to great effect in Penn Yan canoes, and to a lesser extent in Old Towns.

 

[Denise MsWdnBoat]

I've seen the "cheekyness" in recurved stems in the 2 HWs we restored 1912 & 1955 15 & 18 ft

Never thought about it again until I saw this discussion!