Stripping inside of canoe

Michaux Hiker

Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
I have almost finished scrapping off two coats of paint on the inside of a Old Town canoe. Should I leave the fiberglass and canvas on the outside while stripping the remains of paint (darn half ribs) and varnish inside? Does it hurt to leave it in place for now. I have to remove it anyway to replace rib tips, planks, etc..

Thanks, Mike
 
For what it’s worth, when I do a total rebuild/restore job my first avenue of attack is to remove the canvas or fiberglass. Any stripper goo that seeps through the spaces between the planking is easily cleaned up. If you leave the canvas on the stripper and solvents will likely accumulate between the canvas and the hull. It probably won’t hurt anything but will have to be cleaned up before recanvasing and might be a bit of a chore.
 
Thanks, Andy.
Here's a picture from the other week. Have to screw in a few supports before I tackle the outside as the thwarts are missing.
 

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For what it's worth I try to leave the canvas in place until after I strip, clean, and bleach/brighten. The canvas keeps the stripper goo in place if I spill some plus it prevents some of the stuff spilling onto the floor/driveway. It also allows cleaning & bleaching solutions to puddle in the bottom of the canoe thereby allowing these fluids to maintain contact with the wood longer.
 
Stripping is all done! Now to making new stems. Built a form and cut four new stems and two are soaking in water. I'm hopping I don't have any breakage during the bending process. Have enough wood for eight stems so I should get two usable ones.
 
Most stems are narrow across the bend. If you cut the wood to these dimensions then bend the wood will twist on you - at least it always does for me. Always size the wood to a square shape then trim after the bend. Let's say the stem measures 3/4" x 1". Size the wood to 1" x 1", cross fingers, bend, then trim to size after the bend. FYI, on my first try it seems like I went through a cord of wood before I got two that worked.
 
I have my doubts I'll get the first one to bend right. Used to make shaker boxes but the wood is much thinner. I'll let you know how I make out
 
Thanks Dave,
I'm planning on bending tomorrow so I'll stop and get a stiff piece of metal before I start.
Mike
 
Mike,
The metal that you want is not really stiff.
Metal strapping like banding material works well.
I have one form that has an old aluminum carpet/flooring transition strip.
Something thin and flexible that will support the stem Wood from breaking out.
 
Perforated joist straps work well. They’re cheap and flexible enough for the job. The perforations make it easy attach it to a pieces of wood to keep the stem piece under compression. Usually available at a lumber yard or good hardware store.
 
Tried bending my first stem this afternoon. I waited until the last minute thinking I would have a failure and didn't want to get depressed if it broke. But was pleasantly surprised it bent without a hitch! Guess the old carpet transition strip worked and a little bit of luck. Now if I can just get one more....

I want to thank everyone for their help with this process. Attached a before and after picture.
 

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In case it didn't register, it helps (a lot) to soak the wood for 24+hrs, then steam, and bend relatively slowly -though not so slowly as you lose the heat before you get it clamped in place to dry for 24+ hrs.
 
I soaked the wood for 3 days then I made a chicken feeder into a tray filled with water and boil/steamed the wood for 1-1/2 hours before bending.
 
1) Did you boil or steam the wood?
2) The "standard" time is roughly 1 hr per inch - longer is bad, the wood dries out.
3) Hotter is good, meaning you would have better luck with steam than boiling.
4) Don't put your wood in until the steam is pouring out of the box, ie, is at temp.
5) IMO the only reason for pre-soaking is to get some moisture into the wood so it doesn't dry out, unless the wood is very dry, multiple days probably doesn't do much.

"boil/steamed the wood for 1-1/2 hours before bending."
 
I used a hot plate for heat and laid the wood in tray filled with water and covered with a strip of sheet metal. The grain on the two pieces that cracked ran out the side, hence the cracking. I'm trying again on Tuesday.
 
Unless under pressure, steam is no hotter than the boiling water from which it comes, nominally 212 F. As far as I know, steaming is usually used for bending wood rather than boiling because it is generally easier for odd shapes and large pieces. Most wood shops, even professional ones, avoid working with pressurized steam because it can be very dangerous.
 
Run out grain will fail almost every time. I have never had any success bending wavy or run out grained wood, no matter what specie-except white cedar. The amount of heat, method of heat delivery, amount of steam, etc. has never made any diff. Bad grained wood has never bent for me. I know not what others have experienced, but I want the best, straight- grained wood that is available. Poor wood is extremely expensive- even if it is free.
 
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